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Generator Sizing Calculator

Add up what you want to run in an outage — total running watts plus the single biggest starting surge — and get the generator size class to buy, headroom included.

What do you want to keep running?

Tick the appliances and set quantities. The calculator adds up the running watts, then adds the single biggest starting surge — the two numbers every generator is sized by. Wattages are the standard published typicals; your appliance's own label wins where it differs.

Your own appliance

Two numbers size a generator — not one

Every appliance makes two demands on a generator. The running watts are what it draws once it is going. The starting watts are the brief surge a motor pulls in the first second or two — a fridge, pump or air conditioner can demand two to three times its running watts just to start. Size for running watts alone and the generator stalls the first time a big motor kicks in; size for every surge at once and you buy a machine far bigger than the house needs.

The sizing method used here is the one the manufacturers publish: add up the running watts of everything that will run together, then add the single largest starting surge — motors start one at a time, not in chorus — and buy the first standard size class that covers that peak with 20% headroom on top. The headroom is not padding for its own sake: a generator run flat-out at 100% of rating is loud, thirsty and short-lived, and the next appliance is always added eventually.

Peak watts = total running watts + biggest single starting surge  ·  Buy the first size class above peak × 1.20
Example: a refrigerator (180 W running, 900 W starting), a furnace blower (700 / 1,400 W), two lighting circuits (200 W each) and a TV (300 W). Running total 1,580 W; the biggest surge is the refrigerator's, 720 W above its running draw; peak 2,300 W; with headroom, 2,760 W — so the 3,500 W class is the buy, not a 2,200 W unit that would trip the first cold night the furnace and fridge start together.

The wattages are typicals — the label is the law

The figures in the checklist are the standard published typicals the generator makers themselves size with. They are honest averages, and any individual appliance can sit a third above or below its line — an old fridge draws more than a new one, a 5-ton air conditioner varies by model. Before a purchase, read the data plate on the two or three biggest loads and enter them in the "your own appliance" row; the plate replaces the typical, not the other way round.

ApplianceRunning WStarting W
Refrigerator180900
Well pump, 1/2 hp1,0002,100
Sump pump, 1/3 hp8001,300
Central AC, per ton (approx.)1,2001,800
Electric water heater4,5004,500 (no surge)
Electric clothes dryer5,4005,400 (no surge)

Two loads deserve a second look. Electric resistance heat — water heaters, dryers, ranges, baseboard heaters — has no surge at all, but its running draw is enormous, and dropping even one of them from the outage list can move the answer down a whole size class. And central air conditioning is the single biggest swing item in most houses: if the AC can stay off during outages, say so by leaving it unticked, and let the smaller, quieter, cheaper-to-run machine win.

Frequently asked questions

What size generator do I need to run a well pump and a refrigerator?

Together they draw about 1,180 W running, and the pump's start adds the bigger surge — a peak around 2,280 W, or 2,740 W with headroom. A 3,500 W class generator covers the pair with room for lights; tick the rest of your outage list here and let the total speak.

Why is only the largest starting surge added?

Because starting surges are seconds long and motors do not all start in the same second. Sizing practice — the manufacturers' own worksheets do this — adds the one largest surge to the running total. Adding every surge would assume the fridge, pump and furnace all kick in simultaneously, which would oversize the machine by thousands of watts.

Are these wattage figures exact for my appliances?

They are published typicals, stated as such. Your appliance's data plate — usually a sticker inside the door or on the back — is exact, and for the biggest two or three loads it is worth reading and entering in the custom row. A typical gets the size class right in most houses; the plate makes it certain in yours.

Is a bigger generator always safer?

Up to a point. The 20% headroom in the recommendation already covers uneven loading and the next appliance. Going two or three classes bigger buys mostly cost: more fuel burned every hour of an outage, more noise, and a portable engine that runs happiest at half to three-quarters load. The right size run well beats the biggest size run badly.